I don't hate the episode actually. For the most part, I don't mind a little shake-up of the formula now and then and Falk IMO phoned in a "caricature" performance in more notable ways than this one (especially all through the 90s).
I liked it; actually, it's one of my favorites from the original run.
I get the departure-from-the-tradional-formula complaint. It just does not bother me that much.
I especially liked
a few of my favorite non-recurring actors/characters: Mac (Dennis Dugan) and Kittering (Wilfrid Hyde-White) in the Columbo meets Mac and circling the driveway scene, and closing stencil explanation/murderer-is-identified scene.
my favorite recurring actor/character: Bruce Kirby as Sgt Kramer trying to help Columbo quit cigars, holding the lamp upside-down, etc.
my favorite recurring actor in non-recurring role: John Finnegan as the guard. I love the way he talks, and his dialogue with Columbo is always entertaining.