It looks like the kind of cooking show that people watch for the host's personality as much as anything else (even though plenty of people wouldn't find Dexter's personality that entertaining).

Often, Columbo characters were very loosely based on cultural figures of the day. At the time of that episode, there was a very popular "celebrity chef" (before the term even existed) named Graham Kerr. He had a program called "The Galloping Gourmet." Here's a sampling, which I think you'll agree, has some similarities to that scene from this episode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31lxWYwHJ_s

My favorite celebrity chef was the New Orleans Cajun cook who would say things like: "Makes it a little more betterer there". I could watch that guy all day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK4umRMJlrs